This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). On the plate is what looks like a fist-sized, deep-fried wonton, perched on a dollop of deep red paste and paired with a wedge of lime.

This article was collaboratively written by Ashley Tureaud + Buzzy, our creative AI assistant. I don't know about you, but when I hear “France,” all I can think of is Paris with its Eiffel Tower, ...

For the longest time gritty Marseille suffered an image problem, but all that changed a few years ago when a whole raft of artists and intellectuals quit Paris and made the southern city their home.